GRADING

Certain pearls seem to be surrounded by magical charm and fascinate the eye of the observer in an extraordinary way. But experts know: When a pearl enchants us, the interaction of six features strikes the right note. They are the benchmark for evaluating the quality, beauty and value of a pearl and the basic criteria for selecting all El’eeté pearls.

 

 

COATING

The brilliance of a pearl depends on its coating. The thicker the coating, the better the quality and long-lasting beauty of a pearl. However, a thick mother-of-pearl coating takes time – its final layers should be produced during a colder season, as this is the time when particularly delicate mother-of-pearl crystals are created, which are essential for the lustre. Only the best farms in unpolluted environments and stable ecosystems succeed in cultivating pearls of such exceptional quality.

​

​

​

LUSTRE

Only the delicate, compact structure on the surface can reflect the light within the layers of mother-of-pearl in such a way that the shimmering lustre is created that seems to magically appear above the pearl. Consequently, a great lustre can only be created when a pearl is well layered. The lustre is the mysterious silky glow, the vibrant radiance of a pearl. This hazy shimmer makes a pearl very desirable. The lustre is only perfect when it has no dull, transparent or milky spots and the pearl appears as if it was surrounded by a mystical aura. 

 

 

 

COLOUR

The colour of a pearl is dependent on the species of oyster, its environment and the available nutrition. It is composed of two shades: the body colour and the overtone (also known as "orient"), which results from the reflection of light. The desire for, and hence the appreciation of, particular colours depends greatly on their availability and the markets in which they are traded. In general, however, a brighter white is more valuable, as lighter tones blend with all skin colours and enhance a pearl's lustre. Among black Tahitian pearls, the striking "peacock" green tones are particularly popular in Asia. 

​

​

​

SURFACE

The purer, smoother and silkier the surface of a pearl, the more precious it is. Irregularities and scars in its structure are called "spots". However, these should not be considered as flaws, but rather as an individual and affectionate fingerprint of nature. Absolutely perfect surfaces are extremely rare in pearls and can therefore not be regarded as an ideal. In summary, it still means: the more flawless the surface of a pearl, the more exquisite it is.

​

 

SHAPE

Each and every pearl is fascinating because of its unique nature. There are round, semi-round, oval, drop-shaped or ruffled shapes. In general, though, humans love symmetry and always consider precious whatever is very rare. In the case of pearls, this is the perfectly round shape. The more mother-of-pearl surrounds a pearl, the more likely it is going to be of a baroque shape. Especially in fashion, these irregular and therefore very individual pearls are more and more sought after. A large, well-coated pearl of absolute round shape is an exceptional phenomenon.

 

 

SIZE

The size of a pearl always refers to its mid-diameter and can vary between 3 mm and 18 mm, depending on the species. South Sea and Tahitian cultured pearls are known to be the largest pearls in the world. The preciousness of a pearl, nevertheless, does not automatically increase with its size. Only if all other criteria in its quality remain the same its rarity and value will increase.